Thirunallar Dharbaranyeswarar Temple

The name Thirunallar carries a story. The sthala puranam says this is where King Nala of Nishadha was freed from the hold of Shani. One reading joins "Nala" with "aaru", in the sense of distress easing. Another says the town takes its name from lying between rivers, the Noolaru and Vanchiaru to the north and the Arasalaru to the south.

Nala's story is a long one. The puranam says Shani watched and waited a long time after Nala married Damayanti. One day Nala made a small slip in washing his feet before worship, and Shani seized him at that moment. Nala lost his kingdom at dice and was parted from his wife in the forest. Bitten by the serpent Karkotaka, he changed form and served another king as a charioteer. In time he was reunited with Damayanti and won back his kingdom, but his mind found no peace.

The temple's own account says the sage Bharadwaja then sent him to Thirunallar. Here Nala bathed in the Brahma Theertham, worshipped the Lord, and found peace. Devotees believe the tank he later dug is the Nala Theertham, and that those who bathe in it receive grace.

The presiding deity, Dharbaranyeswarar, is worshipped as a self-manifested lingam, named for the forest of darbha grass where he appeared; darbha is also the sacred plant of the temple. The goddess is Praneswari, also known by the lovely Tamil name Bogamartha Poonmulaiyaal. Shani has his own shrine, where devotees cherish him as Anugraha Murthy, standing in a gesture of blessing.

Thirunallar is also one of the seven Saptha Vidanga temples. Tradition says the seven Thyagaraja images Muchukunda Chola received from Indra were installed in seven towns. Here Thyagaraja is called Naga Vidangar, and his dance is the Unmatha Nadanam. An emerald lingam is also kept and worshipped here.

One more story is told. A temple accountant threatened an honest cowherd who supplied the temple's milk. When the Lord sent a weapon towards the accountant, the balipeetam in its path moved aside. That, the story says, is why the balipeetam here stands slightly off its usual place.

Sambandar and Appar (7th century) and Sundarar (9th century) all sang of this shrine, and Arunagirinathar included it in his Thiruppugazh in the 15th century. By tradition, Sambandar's hymn beginning 'Bogamartha Poonmulaiyaal' stayed green and unburnt in the fire ordeal, and so is honoured as the 'Pachai Pathigam'. The temple is in the Dravidian style, with granite walls and a five-tiered gateway tower, on a site of about two acres. Around it lie several sacred tanks: the Brahma, Vani (Saraswathi), Hamsa, Agasthiya and Nala Theerthams. It is run as the Sri Dharbaranyeswara Swamy Devasthanam under the Department of Hindu Religious Institutions, Government of Puducherry. An 18-day Brahmotsavam is held in Vaikasi, but the temple's greatest event is the Sani Peyarchi, which comes about once every two and a half years.

Many people who wish to ease the effects of Shani come here, especially during periods such as Ezharai Sani or Ashtama Sani. The usual practice is to first take an oil bath in the Nala Theertham, and many wear black. Devotees then worship Dharbaranyeswarar and the goddess before going to Shani's shrine, where they light sesame lamps and offer archana. It is also said that devotees may come within the 48-day mandalam that follows a Sani Peyarchi. These are devotional practices based on belief, and no result is promised. For timings, fees and crowds, please check with the temple before you go.