Suriyanar Koil (Suryanar Kovil)

Among the Navagraha temples, this one has a character of its own. At the others Shiva is the presiding deity and the graha has a shrine; here Surya himself is the presiding deity. The other eight grahas have separate shrines inside the same temple, all facing Surya's.

The sthala puranam tells a story. The sage Kalava suffered from severe leprosy and prayed to the nine grahas, who took pity and cured him. Brahma was angered: the grahas are meant to give results according to people's deeds, and they had overstepped that limit. He cursed them to suffer the same disease.

The cursed grahas came to a forest of white calotropis (vellerukku) and did penance to Shiva; one tradition says they worshipped Prananatheswarar at nearby Thirumangalakudi. Shiva lifted the curse and, by belief, told them: "This place is yours from now on. Bless those who come here to worship." Vellerukku is still the sacred tree of the temple.

In the sanctum Surya stands facing west, a lotus in each hand, with Usha Devi and Pratyusha Devi on either side; Pratyusha is also called Chaya Devi. Directly opposite Surya is Guru. Devotees explain that Guru tempers the Sun's fierce heat so that worship can go on in peace. Guru is shown here in the act of worshipping Shiva.

This is not only a Surya temple but a Shiva temple as well: the Lord is Viswanathar and the goddess Visalakshi, and it is counted as a Thevaram Vaippu Sthalam. The hall leading to Surya's shrine holds images of Viswanathar, Visalakshi, Nataraja, Sivakami, Vinayaka and Murugan. The Surya Theertham is the temple tank.

The ten-day Ratha Sapthami festival in the month of Thai is the biggest event here. Tradition honours it as the day the Sun turns his chariot towards the north.

An inscription in the temple says it was built in the reign of Kulothunga Chola I, when it was called Kulothunga Chola Marthandalayam (Marthandan is a name of the Sun). The present stone structure dates to the late 11th century, with some Vijayanagara-period additions; inscriptions also record grants by Krishnadevaraya. The temple is in the Dravidian style, with a granite enclosure wall and a five-tiered gateway tower, and the Surya shrine stands on a raised base. It is administered by the Hindu Religious and Charitable Endowments Department of Tamil Nadu. Muthuswami Dikshitar's kriti 'Suryamurte' in raga Saurashtram is spoken of in connection with this temple. The village is about 15 km from Kumbakonam, 22 km from Mayiladuthurai and 2 km from Aduthurai.

Many come on Sundays to worship Surya, and some come hoping to be eased of troubles they link to the grahas. Some stay in the village for twelve Sundays, bathing in the temple's sacred waters each day, fasting and worshipping. Common offerings are sarkarai pongal, abhishekam, archana, a Navagraha homam and annadanam. Some offer wheat, jaggery or farm produce as a thulabharam, and those hoping for a child tie a cradle and worship. These are devotional practices based on belief, and no result is promised. For timings and fees, please check with the temple before you go.