Thirunageswaram Naganathaswamy Temple

This place was once a forest of champaka trees, so it was called Shenbaga Vanam. The temple's own history says the Lord appeared as a lingam under a champaka tree, so he is also called Shenbagaranyeswarar. The champaka is still the sacred tree, and the main deity is self-manifested.

It is Rahu's story that gave the village its name. Rahu was cursed for biting the child of the sage Susheela. The sthala account says he worshipped the Lord here on Maha Sivaratri to be free of the curse, and once freed he settled here as "Mangala Rahu" with his two wives. Because the serpent worshipped him, the Lord is Naganathar and the village Thirunageswaram. Rahu is usually shown with a human head and a serpent's body, but here he has a fully human form, which is a special feature. Devotees believe that the milk poured over him in abhishekam during Rahu kaalam turns blue.

The puranam says many serpents besides Rahu worshipped here, among them Adisesha, Takshaka and Karkotaka. Takshaka is said to have installed a lingam here on the advice of the sage Kashyapa and been freed of his curse. Another tradition says Nagaraja worshipped Shiva at four temples in the four jamams of Maha Sivaratri night: Nageswarar at Kumbakonam, Thirunageswaram, Thirupampuram and Nagore. This temple is the one for the second jamam.

The Goddess has a story of her own. Her name is Girigujambigai, in Tamil Kunrumamulaikumari. The sage Bhringi worshipped only Shiva and never the Goddess. Hurt by this, she did penance here, with Lakshmi, Saraswathi, Vinayaka, Balasubramanya, Sanganidhi and Padumanidhi beside her. The temple's history says that by her penance she won the right half of the Lord's body, so he is called Mangai Pangar. Lakshmi and Saraswathi share a single shrine with the Goddess, a rare sight. A temple guide says she is a self-manifested image and so receives no abhishekam.

Tradition says Indra worshipped Girigujambigai here to be freed of the sage Gautama's curse. The temple's history adds that Brahma, Surya, Chandra, Gautama, Parasara, Nala and Bhagiratha also worshipped here and were relieved of their troubles. Sekkizhar, who gave us the Periya Puranam, is said to have held this temple especially dear. Kunrathur, where he was born, also has a temple to Naganathar, and Sekkizhar has his own shrine here.

Sambandar, Appar and Sundarar sang this shrine, whose old name is Thirunagechuram. It is the 29th of the Thevaram shrines on the southern bank of the Kaveri. The temple is believed to have been built by Aditya Chola I in the 10th century and was enlarged by later rulers. In the Nayak period Govinda Dikshitar, minister to Achuthappa Nayak and Raghunatha Nayak, built an ornate mandapam. There are gopurams on all four sides, and the temple tank is the Surya Theertham (Surya Pushkarani). It stands about 6 km east of Kumbakonam on the Kumbakonam–Karaikal road and is run by the HR&CE Department. A ten-day Brahmotsavam is held in Karthigai, and Maha Sivaratri, Margazhi Thiruvadhirai, Panguni Uthiram, Navarathri and Kanda Sashti are also celebrated. A Sekkizhar puja has been held in Vaikasi, around his birth date, since 1969. Rahu Peyarchi, when Rahu changes sign, is an important day here.

People who feel troubled by Rahu dosha or naga dosha come here to worship. Milk abhishekam at the Rahu shrine during Rahu kaalam is the best-known practice. Devotees also pray to the Lord for marriage, for children and for success in studies, and those whose prayers are answered customarily offer abhishekam and cloth to the Lord and the Goddess. Large crowds gather on the day of Rahu Peyarchi. These are devotional practices based on belief, and no result is promised. For timings, fees and crowds, please check with the temple before you go.